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On May 1st, 2019, Emperor Akihito officially abdicated the throne and the “Reiwa” era began. This ended the Heisei era, which had begun in 1989 and lasted for 30 years.
Although we are only three years into the Reiwa era, a surprising trend has emerged. Heisei fashion, goods, and accessories have already begun to be deemed “retro” among the younger generation. Today, Gen Z has embraced the trend of “Heisei retro,” bringing back trends such as loose socks, flip phones, and toys and electronics from the late 90s and early 2000s.
What caused the recently-ended Heisei era to be seen as “retro” so quickly? Why are Heisei fashions and other trends making such a comeback among the youth?
The answer is a complex one. As with all “retro” fashion trends, it draws from nostalgia. Many long for a time when things were different, and possibly better, than they are now.
The “rebellion” element of Heisei-era fashion also draws in modern teens. They appreciate the growing freedom and independence represented by gadgets like early flip phones.
Loose Socks: The Heart of “Heisei Retro” Fashion
The most popular “Heisei retro” fashion items are definitely loose socks. Loose socks, as the name suggests, are a type of baggy sock primarily popular among women and girls. They are generally calf- to knee-length, although some thigh-high variants are available. You can wear them pulled high on the leg or pushed down around the ankle.
Loose socks deliberately have a baggy, rumpled appearance. Most loose socks feature a knitted pattern such as ribbing, making them bulky and comfortable. White is the most popular color for loose socks. However, black and pastel hues like pale pink are also popular. Some people attach their loose socks to their legs with skin-friendly adhesives to prevent sagging or drooping during the day.
The popularity of loose socks arose as an act of protest and rebellion against strict school dress codes in Japan. Most Japanese junior high and high schools have uniforms. Socks are one of the few parts of their “look” a student can customize. Loose socks, with their deliberately baggy appearance, contrast visually with neat, pressed school uniforms. Today, teens still wear loose socks with uniforms but also pair them with street clothes and cosplay outfits. Loose socks are often part of a gyaru, kogal, or fairy kei fashion look. [1]
What Else Qualifies as “Heisei Retro?”
The “Heisei retro” trend encompasses far more than just loose socks. Toys and sweets from the 1990s and 2000s are regaining popularity, including the talkative stuffed animal Furby and Glico brand Pocky, Caplico, and Cream Collon biscuits.
Video game fans are purchasing and playing vintage consoles such as the Sega Dreamcast, Sony PlayStation 1 and 2, and Nintendo DS. Heisei nostalgia in the video game sphere may be spurred at least in part by the recent remakes and re-releases of popular games from that era including the original Final Fantasy and Super Mario Bros. titles.
While iPhones and other brands of smartphone are becoming more advanced every year, fans of the “Heisei retro” trend are instead opting for out-of-date flip phones with no Internet connection and only basic texting functions. These phones are sometimes colloquially known as “Garakei,” short for “Galapagos phones” – referring to the notion that Japan is a Galapagos island whose technology is distanced from (and behind) the rest of the world.
Although these phones are seen as cheap today because they are so out-of-date, the growing popularity of the “Heisei retro” style has led some early 2000s flip phones to skyrocket in price. Teenagers and young adults using these phones decorate them with colorful straps, often featuring stuffed animals and characters such as Hello Kitty. [2]
Why Did “Heisei Retro” Take Off During the Reiwa Era?
Japan is no stranger to “retro” trends. “Showa retro,” which typically refers to the period just after World War II, emphasizes plain fashion and designs, simple, modest living, and traditional Japanese music and architecture. It celebrates what some see as a “golden age” for Japan, as the country recovered following the two World Wars and became globally influential while still celebrating all things Japanese.
“Taisho retro,” which hearkens back to an even earlier era, is a vintage fashion movement that also gained popularity in recent years. It may have been somewhat inspired by the success of manga and anime Demon Slayer: Kimetsu no Yaiba, which takes place during that era. [3]
But what caused the Heisei era to become “retro” just a few years after it drew to a close? There is no singular answer to this question. Some who embrace the “Heisei retro” trend feel nostalgia for a more economically successful period, when Japan’s “bubble” had not yet popped. [4]
Others feel frustrated by the rapidly changing and advancing technology and feel drawn to simpler phones or vintage gaming consoles as a result. It may also have something to do with the COVID-19 pandemic, as people long for a time before lockdowns and quarantines became a common part of everyday life. [5]
Heisei Retro Is Here To Stay
Regardless of its origins, it seems that “Heisei retro” is here to stay. During an informal SNS survey, both junior high school and high school-aged users voted the word one of 2022’s most popular slang terms. It has begun to appear as a popular hashtag on sites including but not limited to Twitter, Instagram, and Pinterest.
And loose socks are no longer limited to niche costumes. These once-again trendy garments can be found in high-end fashion stores throughout Japan.
Although it’s only been a few years since Japan said “goodbye Heisei, hello Reiwa,” the not-so-long-gone era may have come back sooner than anyone expected.
Sources
[1] Business Journal. “90年代女子高生の「足元事情」、覚えてる!? ルーズソックス、ローファー、そして……” 17 June 2019. Link.
[2] Withnews. “平成レトロと「エモい」の深い関係 「〝時代〟は振り返っていない」” 27 December 2022. Link.
[3] Wallin, Lisa. “The Showa Revival in Japan: Why It’s Happening and Where to Get Your Retro Fix.” 6 June 2017. Link.
[4] Asahi Shinbun. “えっ、平成ってもう「レトロ」？ 懐かしのグッズ 令和でも魅力” 30 November 2022. Link.
[5] PRESIDENT Online. “平成レトロが大ブーム…なぜイマドキの10代はiPhoneよりガラケーに憧れるのか” 29 May 2022. Link.
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